Wednesday, July 11, 2012

Completed - McCalls 6505

I posted about McCalls 6505 while in progress here and it is now complete.  Let me just start out by saying: I love this dress!  I need more occasions to actually wear it (or I guess I could just be super fancy around the house or shopping at Target).  Here is the pattern as a reminder:

I was having some issues with some bagginess in the front midsection because the front underlining is just one piece.  I wasn't sure how to fix it, so I tried ripping out the side seams and restitching them again but taking out significantly more from the front piece than the back.  I actually think it helped a lot!  It helped to give more definition in the waist as well so it was less sack-like (if you look at the picture, it definitely looks a little bit shapeless on the model, so if you decide to make this dress I'd think about carving a bit more out of the sides). I made a 6 and it fit everywhere else, so I think that's just how the pattern is.


Don't adjust your monitor: I really AM that pale and reflective.  You're also probably getting tired of seeing my sunroom, but it has the best light in the house (because of, you know, the sun.  In this room.  Which is a sun-room).  This dress came out exactly how I pictured in my mind!  And even better than that: it was easy!  I envisioned the potential disasters of working with lace, but honestly it was not that different from any other fabric (and it was easier than some; poly-spandex blend: I'm talking to you!).

In all honesty, I really didn't use the instructions because I found them overwhelming and confusing.  I also modified the pattern by not putting in a lining.  I knew that this dress was going to be worn in Las Vegas...in July...where it is currently 112 degrees, so the fewer layers the better.  The instructions also had you fully make the underlining/lining part first before ever attaching the lace, and that just seemed strange.  I thought that "underlining" meant a layer of fabric that is basted to the main fabric and then the two are used as one.  Am I wrong about that?  I would have also had to make the darts in each layer one at a time as opposed to making them to the underlining and lace at the same time (which is what I ended up doing and I think it made the process so much easier!).  I was a little lazy in some places with the underlining (i.e. folding over and stitching to finish the neckline and armhole edges as opposed to making a facing), but I knew that it would be concealed by the lace so it worked fine.


I used the selvedge edge of the lace as my trim around the neck, back, sleeves, and bottom hem.  It was actually really easy to attach the trim and it made it to where I didn't have to hem anything (even better).  I have a confession to make: I actually just pinked the bottom of the underlining fabric because it's covered by the lace trim and you can't see it.  Since I used the lace and underlining as one piece of fabric, I forgot to hem before sewing it all up.  It works though and I don't think it will fray too much.  There is also a 20 inch invisible zipper in the center back and it was surprisingly easy to put in as well.

Here's another confession: I could tell that the poly-shantung fabric I used as my underlining was going fray like mad, so I actually used my pinking shears to cut out the fabric.  I'm sure that's breaking like 23 different sewing rules and I might have my sewing card revoked or something, but it actually worked really well.  I didn't have any fraying issues at all, so it's something you might consider if you find yourself working with fabric that wants to fall apart.

I looked up lace dresses online and I saw that they are everywhere!  They are also mostly upwards of $100, so the fact that this dress cost me about $22 to make is just icing on the cake!  I think that means I should use the savings to go out and buy a new pair of shoes that I can actually walk farther than across my house in because as fabulous as these are, they HURT! This pretty much sums up what I think about them:


But they're so cute...maybe I'll try a different brand of cushy insoles even though I already have some in them and they aren't any more comfortable.  I'm wearing the dress though, even if I have to wear flip flops!  It's Vegas afterall; that city has seen it all!

Monday, July 9, 2012

Simplicity 2226

Back in April, I bought Simplicity 2226 at a pattern sale because I wanted to finally make a skirt I was happy with, and this pattern was part of the "Learn to Sew" collection (well yes, that is what I'd like to do thankyouverymuch).

I had no idea that Noodlehead hosted a sew-a-long of this exact pattern last November and that I could have found about a million examples of it on other blogs (along with trials, tribulations, and helpful hints).  Oh well, I'm not a cheater (just kidding; that's not cheating, I'm just bitter at missing out!).  I want to say though that these Learn to Sew patterns are really great for beginners such as myself because you really do learn quite a few new skills with each one (and hopefully you'll master at least one!  If you put together the fractional amounts that I mastered of each skill, I probably mastered like 1 and a 1/2 skills!)


I used a Lisette floral cotton fabric because I made this in April and I thought it seemed very "springy." This fabric wrinkles more than an 80 year-old woman who spent 8 hours a day every day of her life laying out and smoking cigarettes.  And drinking.  Lots of drinking, but never water.  That is how wrinkled this fabric gets just by my looking at it.  It is comfortable though and very cool in the hot Texas weather.

I learned a few more things with this pattern, which is good seeing as I was promised that I would "learn to sew" with this pattern.


Pockets!  I can put stuff in them!  Like...my hands!  (Have you ever noticed the abundance of patterns that are super pocket-happy?  There are like formal ball gowns with secret pockets in the seams.  Why??  I usually have a purse).  I had some frustrating times with pockets on the purse I made, but these were actually pretty easy after I figured out some of the sewing terminology (i.e. pocket vs. pocket facing, yoke, carrier, etc.  Just say what you mean!  Why the code words?  Is this a secret club?  Am I cool because I know these secret code words?).


My first zipper!  It is definitely far from perfect (I really didn't get the instructions that well, and now I am a total invisible zipper convert so I still don't know how to put one of these in), but it zips and keeps gravity from pants-ing (er, skirtsing?) me in public.  Score!  I ignored the hook and eye at the top because...I just did.  I learned so many other things; I didn't want to push it.  Do you believe that?  Me either.  I just didn't want to, ok!

This skirt started off a series of garments where I attempted to actually sew the size the pattern said I should.  It should not have been a series of garments; it should have only been this one, but I never said I was one to learn my lesson quickly.  Let's just say it was research and I was making sure that a 12 was too big through having more trials as proof.


Well...a 12 is too big.  You can't tell (which is a good thing), but I can see my feet by pulling my skirt away from my body.  I'd say it's like a good 3 to 4 inches out.  It's probably meant to sit closer to my true waist, but it's definitely a low-rise skirt, which I can't say isn't comfortable, but it's definitely too big.  Because it sits so low on my hips, I had to cut off a good 5 inches or so in length, and I could probably chop off some more but I want to be able to wear this to work.

All in all, I like it and it's a practical skirt that I've worn a few times. I'm sure I will continue to wear it in the future, but I might decide to make it shorter and not wear it to work; there is something about the length that I don't think I like now that I see it in pictures.  Hmmm...

Saturday, July 7, 2012

Work in Progress - McCalls 6505

The husband, B, and I are going to Las Vegas in a week or so (this is my 6th time there; it's fun, don't judge) so I decided I wanted to make a "Vegas" dress.  Then I realized that a "Vegas" dress would probably involve feathers, 10-inch heels, and a 50 lb. headdress so I'll just say this is more like a "nice dinner in Vegas" dress.  Or since we're dining at Delmonico Steakhouse, "Emeril's dress." I had picked up McCalls 6505 at a pattern sale (oh, pattern sales...how I love you so) thinking "huh, I wonder when I'd ever wear this...oh well, it's only 99 cents!" and into my cart it went. Yes, I generally have to have a cart when I go to the fabric stores.  And there are many patterns that fall into the "it's only 99 cents" part of my logic, which when you think about it, can quickly add up to a large number when you put a lot of 99 centses together...let's just not think about that.

I have the basic shell of the dress put together, zipper and all, but now I have to add the scalloped sleeves, add the trim along the bottom, and do some tweeking to the overall fit.


Forgive the Instagram shot, but I only pull out the big camera for the finished product (because I am lazy and I hate loading pics onto my computer until I have a bunch of them to upload).  It looks pretty good on my dressform!  Sadly, my dressform has larger boobs than I do (seems kind of unfair, but thems the breaks), so when I put it on me I don't have quite the same...um...cup-filling.  I'm also annoyed that the area around the stomach poofs out because the front is all one piece with only side-boob darts (official terminology, I'm sure).  I may have to add some darts to the front, but I don't know if that would look bad?  I might just try to take more in on the sides instead.

I don't know who will actually see this, if anyone, but if you DO and you have some tips on how to get rid of the stomach-fabric pooling, I'd really appreciate it!  If I could alleviate that issue, then this dress will look awesome at our dinner!

Friday, July 6, 2012

Simplicity 2184 - Again

Jumping back to the past again, in March I had another go at Simplicity 2184 but opted for the full length this time for variety.

I bought fabric for it the same day I bought this pattern and the fabric for my first skirt, which was also the first time I had ever bought a pattern or fabric before.  My qualification for whether or not to purchase it was "ooooooo, pretty..." (although honestly, I can't really claim that things aren't still that way as I really don't know my fabrics all that well).  I saw this pink, flowery, crinkly fabric (I'm pretty sure that's the official term for this type of fabric: "crinkly."  You all know exactly what I'm talking about...just nod and smile).  It's certainly a beautiful fabric with a great flowyness (ok, spellcheck insists that is not a word; neither is "flowy" or "flowey" so just go with it), but it was definitely not easy to sew with and it frayed like mad!  (It's not crepe, chenille, chantilly, or chellis...ugh, what is this fabric called!  It starts with a C though, I think...and although I know how well I sold it, "crinkly" isn't actually a type of fabric.  Sorry to crush your spirit there).


I'm pretty meh about this skirt.  I did wear it to work once and got a lot of compliments and "you made thats???" (which of course I have to admit I like, although sometimes I wear things and people ask if I made it and I say yes, and then they tell me something like "seriously? I didn't really think you did I just thought I would ask since you sew." Then why ask??  Is that a compliment...? I think it's meant to be.  If I said "nope, not this one" what would the response be?  Seems like a set up for an awkward moment to me).

First of all, I wanted the skirt to go all the way to the floor, and clearly it doesn't (even with a narrow hem).  I'm 5'7" so I guess I should get used to adding an inch or two and if it's too long I can always shorten, but I can't lengthen (and I can't really shorten myself either, so that's out).  I can't remember what size I made, but I think I went with the same size as the first version of the skirt that was too small because clearly I learned that lesson so well the first time I decided to try it again assuming either I magically shrank or suddenly the size meant something different.  The fabric doesn't have any stretch to it either, so I ended up, once again, with a too tight skirt across the hips.  (Those damn hips).  I, once again, eeked out as much space as possible in my seam allowances, but I think the culprets in this skirt were the godets.

Yes, godets.  I learned what those were in the making of this skirt because there were like 50 of them (or 4, you decide which of those numbers is more accurate).  I learned that I kind of hate them and they are jerks (at least as a newby I really did...I haven't tried anything involving them again so I don't know if we can be friends yet).  Those are some tough little buggers to sew because of the odd way they come together at a point.  They also make pattern matching extremely difficult (but who am I kidding?  I didn't even try it anyway).

I also learned that this fabric is SHEER (is it crinkled gauze?  I seriously want to say challis, but I know that isn't right.  But it's see-through, crinkle fabric).  I had no clue how to line anything or even what to use, but I knew that I wanted it to be light and I knew we were coming up on summer in Texas (which runs from about March until December; it's like our only real season) so I didn't want anything too hot.  I went with a cotton muslin (still have no clue if that is the right choice) and I basically just traced the skirt laid out, cut double, sewed side seams and attached it when I attached the waistband.  Voila.  A serviceable lining by someone who had absolutely no clue what she was doing!

CHIFFON!!!  That's the word that has escaped me!  That's the fabric.  Well I feel better now.  I'm sure glad I didn't make too big of a deal out of remembering it...would be silly to make a mountain out of a molehill.  Yeah...


Two thoughts on this: what is up with the extra skin pooling at my elbows? Oh, 20's how I miss you and your skin elasticity.  Secondly, I need a wide brown woven leather belt.  That would really help this outfit.  As is, I'm just not feeling it and don't know if this will get much wear.  I do think it's a nice pattern though, even if my two attempts were not amazing (mostly due to my errors...and repeated errors, not the pattern itself).  Maybe I'll tackle it again because I really do want a maxi skirt that goes all the way to the floor.

Wednesday, July 4, 2012

4th of July Dress - Simplicity 2444

I feel like I've been living in the past on this blog so far (I mean, way back like 4 months ago when I was a wee sewing newbie as opposed to the vastly wiser sewing beginner that I am now).  So even though I have like a gajillion (more like 15) pre-blog projects to chronicle here, I thought I would show something I just completed so that you know how much better I have gotten and will hopefully continue reading this blog.  I'm better, I promise!  I make more than aprons and purses!


This pattern is everywhere!  I have seen so many completed versions of it and they are all beautiful!  I was inspired by Cynthia's version at Dapper Duds because it really caught my eye with the Chevron stripes and involved the right amount of "let-me-take-a-simple-pattern-and-make-my-life-more-difficult" that I seem to gravitate towards recently. (I did the same thing with the McCalls tank maxi dress that is everywhere because why make something that is only two pieces when you can turn it into 5 AND mess up and run out of fabric thus making it not a maxi but a mini?  Blog post coming eventually...)  I cut out a size 6 and I think that was probably the best choice because although it was a bit snug without a zipper (since it was all bias cut, it was just stretchy enough to wiggle into without one, SCORE!), I just made 3/8 seam allowances instead of 5/8 and it is fine so I think an 8 would have been a bit big.

Sidenote: I have really gone through quite a sizing journey over the last few months.  Packaging said I should be a 12, but after making a couple of things in that size I could have fit 2 of me in there, so I started using the finished measurements and usually fit somewhere between a 6 and an 8. I have a couple of things that fit at a 10, so really what I'm saying is I still have no idea about sizing.  Don't listen to me.  This was a wasted sidenote.

I found this fake silk fabric on clearance at Hancock Fabrics and I knew that this was the right project for the stripes (AND it could be patriotic!  Go USA!  Or whatever).


I really like the way this dress turned out and the pattern (if unmodified) seems like a really simple, tried-and-true dress that I will probably make again.  I butchered the hell out of it though and I didn't even use the instructions a single time (what a daredevil I am, taking so many risks) so I have no idea how clear they were.  I basically cut out each piece on a single layer, none of them on the fold, painstakingly trying to match the stripes to make the V shape, and then I immediately sewed each new piece as I went along.


I think I did a pretty good job (pat myself on the back).  I already knew after reading Cynthia's blog post that the darts and pleats kind of mess up the stripes, but I honestly had no idea how to plan for that so it is what it is.  It really doesn't bug me that much, especially since I was able to match pretty well everywhere else.  This fabric really didn't have very good long-term memory for pressing, so hemming was a beast.  I tried to do a blind hem, which is always kind of hit or miss for me anyway, and it didn't really turn out how I wanted it to, but I actually kind of like the contrast that I got along the bottom.  Am I crazy?  Does it not look good?  Am I just trying to convince myself that I like it so that I don't feel compelled to rip it out and try again (I must be doing a great job because I really think I like it!).  The one area I am not thrilled with is the neck because I made it into a V-neck (which I like!) and that made it more difficult to finish.  I used bias tape as a binding and it's a little wonky in spots, but maybe I should have drafted a facing?  I don't know.  I'm trying to ignore it.


I love how full the skirt is!  It also passes the spinning test and is very flowy (when I was little, I used to call dresses "stick out dresses" if I could spin and they would twirl nicely).  I really liked the fabric and aside from how easily it frayed it was easy to sew if I used a thin needle (80/11 as opposed to 90/14...I point this out because I am notorious for not thinking about those little details).  Cutting so many pieces on the bias also helped keep the fraying at bay.

I highly recommend this pattern!  It's so versatile because you make it as is or it provides a really good jumping-off point for other ideas.

Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Simplicity 2551

I was feeling pretty snarky (my mom's word; not sure if it's totally made up and unknown to 99% of the population) after the apron, but I still wanted an "easy" project.  I mean, I made a tote(ish) bag, an almost-fits-if-I-don't-eat skirt, and an oft-forgotten apron so I'm basically an expert at this point, right?  No dismal failures yet at least.


Why did I think a purse would be easy to make???  I still ask myself that question because when I think about making another purse, I kinda get a little twitchy at the idea.  When I realized that I could buy pre-quilted fabric, I don't think I took into account that the fabric still had to be constructed into something resembling a purse; it's not magic fabric.

Sidenote: I had never in my life heard of Vera Bradley, but I've been told that this bag is a knock-off of her stuff.  Of course, now I see her stores everywhere and it's like every one I know has something Vera Bradley (including my 11 year-old niece, she has TWO things), so that shows how observant I am of current trends (read: not).


I actually really like how the purse came out, and I can vouch for its functionality because I still use it (and I made it back in March).  I love the colors and the size (it fits everything!), but if I made it again I would definitely make some pockets for the inside as opposed to leaving it as one big open area.  I know there are pockets on the outside, but they are totally non-functional because of my inability to translate the pattern into English.

Which brings me to my point: this was NOT a beginner pattern!  I was definitely biting off more than I could chew with my limited skill set for sewing and there were times I wanted to throw the whole thing in the trash and make a trip out to the Coach outlet with my 20% coupon (LOVE!), but then I remembered that this pre-quilted fabric was like almost $20 per yard, so I persevered.

In my defense, even now if I go back and look at this pattern there are some things that don't make sense.  For example, I never see a time when they tell you to actually sew the pockets closed.  So they're not and if you put something in one of them, it will end up in the no-mans-land between the lining and the outer fabric. They also had me stitch down the front of the purse in order to attach the pocket to the purse, so that's not very attractive either (but it's the only thing that I can get out of the pattern instructions).

The other tricky area was the front pocket piping/pocket facing area, but I think that was my fault because I couldn't envision what the instructions were trying to tell me.  I've used piping more now and I think I know what happened there. I definitely like the detail though (and in this picture you can see one of the random lines going down the front of the bag. Weird).  Oh, ignore the fact that I couldn't make a straight line on the brown part; I'm much better now, I promise!


The lining is the main tricky issue with this purse and the first time I put it in, I put it in backwards so you could see all of the exposed seams as opposed to it looking nice and neat. And actually, I thought it was supposed to be that way for some reason until I actually saw it put together and thought a lot of words I won't say here on the internets (I'm a lady).  That was one of the points I wanted to scrap the whole thing, but after walking away for awhile and regrouping/pep-talking ("you are a strong, confident woman..."), I returned and ripped the lining out and put it in the correct way. (You can't see to the bottom, but I promise it looks amazing!  Maybe the most amazing bottom of a bag you've ever seen).


So in conclusion, I'm happy with it.  I use the crap out of it and have gotten some compliments.  I wouldn't want to set it next to a Vera Bradley, but if there isn't one around it could probably be mistaken for one...ya know, if someone forgot their glasses and is really squinting at it.

Saturday, June 30, 2012

Butterick 5474

My first skirt didn't quite inspire a high level of sewing confidence, so I thought I would attempt some smaller projects to build up my skills.  (Note: not all objects that seem easy, or are labeled as "easy" are in fact easy.  Just like when I tell my mother that doing something involving an electronic device is "easy" only to end up teaching her the first step for all eternity, like click on "send" to send that email).  Thankfully, aprons are actually fairly simple, but I was sooooooo wrong about making purses (blog post coming soon).

Enter Butterick 5474, an apron.  Aprons have to be easy, right?  And totally useful as something that I forget to actually use until after I'm covered in sauce or grease.  I did actually remember to use it last week when I was pitting cherries (score 1 for me, about 500 for food splatters), so i can vouch for its clothes-protecting skills.


I also want to point out that this was my first experience at a pattern sale at Joann Fabrics.  O. M. G.!!!  I officially have a problem now and need some kind of therapy for overbuying patterns, but from all of the blogs I read I have noticed that others also have this problem, so therefore I have decided it is NOT a problem because that many people can't be wrong!  Right?  Right.  (Don't mess with us. Our hobby involves sharp objects).




I chose to make the full-length option with the bias-tape around the edge, which brings me to my first lesson that I learned in the making of this apron: there is something called bias tape.  And if you google it, you find many links to tutorials for how to make bias tape, but you don't really find a whole lot that says "hey, you can buy this for super cheap at a craft store so you don't have to spend hours making it yourself."  Nope, must have missed those links because I thought bias tape was something I had to actually make.  So make I did out of some fabric that I thought was very complimentary to my main fabric.




Now I know that I could have spent about a buck and a half on plain black bias tape.  (*breathe, go to your happy place*).  I'm so grateful for the learning experience of making my own bias tape so that I appreciate more how it works when I buy it at the store in bulk now.  It's kind of a shame that I used this technique on an apron that I mostly forget to even use, but I know how to do it if I need a more unique touch on something I make (*cough won't happen cough*).




All in all, this was actually a pretty easy project after all and maybe if I leave post-it notes on all of my cookbooks saying "WEAR AN APRON, DUMMY!!" I will remember to use it more often.  Probably not though as I have a bad habit of ignoring things once I get used to them being there.  C'est la vie!