Saturday, July 14, 2012

Scrapped - Vogue 8728

Well it's happened: my first unfinished object (UFO, they ARE real!).  It's disappointing too because I've seen so many great versions of this dress on the internets.


I want to clarify that this has absolutely nothing to do with the pattern itself.  It didn't have too many pieces, the instructions were clear (although kind of odd because it's a vintage re-issue, but I just kind of did things my own way), and in theory I should have ended up with a cute new/old dress.

However, I learned something new from this experience: my machine is hungry.  It's hungry for jersey and it doesn't care who knows it!  I wish I knew exactly what this fabric actually is so that I can put it on my "do not ever ever ever buy this ever again...ever!" list (that I will most likely ignore if I see a cute print or an awesome color).  I found it in the remnant bin at Hancock Fabrics (their remnants are great; sometimes as much as 2 yards!), but the problem is they don't specify what the fabric is just that it's apparel fabric.  I know that it's some kind of jersey because it's a knit that's super stretchy and drapey, but this jersey is actually kind of heavy.  One side of it almost has a kind of sheen to it while the other side is a bit more dull.  Any ideas?  Probably polyester like 99% of the fabrics found at Joann and Hancocks.

Well whatever it is, my machine continued to feast on it again and again and again.  I had to take apart my machine 5 times and a couple of those times ended up making a hole in the fabric (which maaaaaaaybe had to do with my impatience and eventual tugging on it...oops...and maybe or maybe not while yelling...).  I did learn that my walking foot is pretty much a necessity with this fabric because any other foot I used just made the problem worse (i.e. gathering foot is a NO NO!), but there was no fooling my ravenous machine.  It had an unquenchable thirst for this stuff!

So I think I give up!  I may go back and try again after awhile (we need some time apart...maybe absence will make the heart grow fonder).  I also have a difficult time with things that are left unfinished and they kind of eat away at me cause I know they're there...staring at me...

Thursday, July 12, 2012

Simplicity 2449

I made this skirt back in April, and I was really happy with how it turned out!  I saw this beautiful embroidered linen/rayon blend fabric at Joann Fabrics and I knew that it would make a great skirt.  It has a nice weight to it and it flows nicely while still giving it structure.  I love the color (I seem to gravitate towards blue fabrics, it seems). The pattern was described as "easy to sew" so it only took me a few hours to make, even as a beginner!


I made view E with the cute tie in the front.  The tie is actually sewn into the side seams and only shows in the front so it's not meant to be functional.  I accidentally sewed one of the ties a bit too high so when I folded over the casing it pulled the top of the tie over too, but it's not really noticeable if you don't know about it. The skirt has an elastic waistband so it's very easy to put together (once I learned the ol' attach-a-safety-pin-to-the-elastic-and-guide-it-through-the-casing trick; that one is brilliant!).


The weird thing is I can't really remember much about making this skirt other than the fact that it was very quick to put together.  I cut out the paper pattern, the fabric, and put the whole thing together during the day on a Saturday and then wore it to dinner that night!  That's my kind of project!  I don't think I had any significant issues with it at all; because the waist is elastic, I could make it as tight as I needed so I didn't have any fit issues even though I think I was still in my making-size-12 phase.  This skirt probably set me back on my discovery of a 12 being too big since I was able to make it fit so well and it didn't occur to me until just now that the elastic is the reason why...this is why talking it out helps!  Thanks guys!  Blogging rocks!  Probably would have helped me back in April, huh?


I think this might have been the project when I first learned about the concept of finishing seams (ya know, just that little detail.  No biggie or anything).  I pinked all of the seams because I could tell this fabric would fray if left raw, and it's holding together just fine.  At the time, this was definitely the best thing I had made and it looked the most professional.  People at work would ask me if I made it and then when I said yes they were actually surprised and were like "no you didn't!"  Uh, yeah...I did.


I think I might actually bring the hem up another inch or two so that it hits right above my knee and not at the spot where my calves start.  Seeing it in picture form really helps me to see that even though I own a mirror and never really noticed that before.

If I made it again with a similar fabric, I might consider adding a lining because it is a little bit scratchy.  It's not really that bad, but I can imagine how nice a lining might feel against my legs.  I'd like to make some of the other views of this pattern, especially the gathered version because that looks fun!

Wednesday, July 11, 2012

Completed - McCalls 6505

I posted about McCalls 6505 while in progress here and it is now complete.  Let me just start out by saying: I love this dress!  I need more occasions to actually wear it (or I guess I could just be super fancy around the house or shopping at Target).  Here is the pattern as a reminder:

I was having some issues with some bagginess in the front midsection because the front underlining is just one piece.  I wasn't sure how to fix it, so I tried ripping out the side seams and restitching them again but taking out significantly more from the front piece than the back.  I actually think it helped a lot!  It helped to give more definition in the waist as well so it was less sack-like (if you look at the picture, it definitely looks a little bit shapeless on the model, so if you decide to make this dress I'd think about carving a bit more out of the sides). I made a 6 and it fit everywhere else, so I think that's just how the pattern is.


Don't adjust your monitor: I really AM that pale and reflective.  You're also probably getting tired of seeing my sunroom, but it has the best light in the house (because of, you know, the sun.  In this room.  Which is a sun-room).  This dress came out exactly how I pictured in my mind!  And even better than that: it was easy!  I envisioned the potential disasters of working with lace, but honestly it was not that different from any other fabric (and it was easier than some; poly-spandex blend: I'm talking to you!).

In all honesty, I really didn't use the instructions because I found them overwhelming and confusing.  I also modified the pattern by not putting in a lining.  I knew that this dress was going to be worn in Las Vegas...in July...where it is currently 112 degrees, so the fewer layers the better.  The instructions also had you fully make the underlining/lining part first before ever attaching the lace, and that just seemed strange.  I thought that "underlining" meant a layer of fabric that is basted to the main fabric and then the two are used as one.  Am I wrong about that?  I would have also had to make the darts in each layer one at a time as opposed to making them to the underlining and lace at the same time (which is what I ended up doing and I think it made the process so much easier!).  I was a little lazy in some places with the underlining (i.e. folding over and stitching to finish the neckline and armhole edges as opposed to making a facing), but I knew that it would be concealed by the lace so it worked fine.


I used the selvedge edge of the lace as my trim around the neck, back, sleeves, and bottom hem.  It was actually really easy to attach the trim and it made it to where I didn't have to hem anything (even better).  I have a confession to make: I actually just pinked the bottom of the underlining fabric because it's covered by the lace trim and you can't see it.  Since I used the lace and underlining as one piece of fabric, I forgot to hem before sewing it all up.  It works though and I don't think it will fray too much.  There is also a 20 inch invisible zipper in the center back and it was surprisingly easy to put in as well.

Here's another confession: I could tell that the poly-shantung fabric I used as my underlining was going fray like mad, so I actually used my pinking shears to cut out the fabric.  I'm sure that's breaking like 23 different sewing rules and I might have my sewing card revoked or something, but it actually worked really well.  I didn't have any fraying issues at all, so it's something you might consider if you find yourself working with fabric that wants to fall apart.

I looked up lace dresses online and I saw that they are everywhere!  They are also mostly upwards of $100, so the fact that this dress cost me about $22 to make is just icing on the cake!  I think that means I should use the savings to go out and buy a new pair of shoes that I can actually walk farther than across my house in because as fabulous as these are, they HURT! This pretty much sums up what I think about them:


But they're so cute...maybe I'll try a different brand of cushy insoles even though I already have some in them and they aren't any more comfortable.  I'm wearing the dress though, even if I have to wear flip flops!  It's Vegas afterall; that city has seen it all!

Monday, July 9, 2012

Simplicity 2226

Back in April, I bought Simplicity 2226 at a pattern sale because I wanted to finally make a skirt I was happy with, and this pattern was part of the "Learn to Sew" collection (well yes, that is what I'd like to do thankyouverymuch).

I had no idea that Noodlehead hosted a sew-a-long of this exact pattern last November and that I could have found about a million examples of it on other blogs (along with trials, tribulations, and helpful hints).  Oh well, I'm not a cheater (just kidding; that's not cheating, I'm just bitter at missing out!).  I want to say though that these Learn to Sew patterns are really great for beginners such as myself because you really do learn quite a few new skills with each one (and hopefully you'll master at least one!  If you put together the fractional amounts that I mastered of each skill, I probably mastered like 1 and a 1/2 skills!)


I used a Lisette floral cotton fabric because I made this in April and I thought it seemed very "springy." This fabric wrinkles more than an 80 year-old woman who spent 8 hours a day every day of her life laying out and smoking cigarettes.  And drinking.  Lots of drinking, but never water.  That is how wrinkled this fabric gets just by my looking at it.  It is comfortable though and very cool in the hot Texas weather.

I learned a few more things with this pattern, which is good seeing as I was promised that I would "learn to sew" with this pattern.


Pockets!  I can put stuff in them!  Like...my hands!  (Have you ever noticed the abundance of patterns that are super pocket-happy?  There are like formal ball gowns with secret pockets in the seams.  Why??  I usually have a purse).  I had some frustrating times with pockets on the purse I made, but these were actually pretty easy after I figured out some of the sewing terminology (i.e. pocket vs. pocket facing, yoke, carrier, etc.  Just say what you mean!  Why the code words?  Is this a secret club?  Am I cool because I know these secret code words?).


My first zipper!  It is definitely far from perfect (I really didn't get the instructions that well, and now I am a total invisible zipper convert so I still don't know how to put one of these in), but it zips and keeps gravity from pants-ing (er, skirtsing?) me in public.  Score!  I ignored the hook and eye at the top because...I just did.  I learned so many other things; I didn't want to push it.  Do you believe that?  Me either.  I just didn't want to, ok!

This skirt started off a series of garments where I attempted to actually sew the size the pattern said I should.  It should not have been a series of garments; it should have only been this one, but I never said I was one to learn my lesson quickly.  Let's just say it was research and I was making sure that a 12 was too big through having more trials as proof.


Well...a 12 is too big.  You can't tell (which is a good thing), but I can see my feet by pulling my skirt away from my body.  I'd say it's like a good 3 to 4 inches out.  It's probably meant to sit closer to my true waist, but it's definitely a low-rise skirt, which I can't say isn't comfortable, but it's definitely too big.  Because it sits so low on my hips, I had to cut off a good 5 inches or so in length, and I could probably chop off some more but I want to be able to wear this to work.

All in all, I like it and it's a practical skirt that I've worn a few times. I'm sure I will continue to wear it in the future, but I might decide to make it shorter and not wear it to work; there is something about the length that I don't think I like now that I see it in pictures.  Hmmm...

Saturday, July 7, 2012

Work in Progress - McCalls 6505

The husband, B, and I are going to Las Vegas in a week or so (this is my 6th time there; it's fun, don't judge) so I decided I wanted to make a "Vegas" dress.  Then I realized that a "Vegas" dress would probably involve feathers, 10-inch heels, and a 50 lb. headdress so I'll just say this is more like a "nice dinner in Vegas" dress.  Or since we're dining at Delmonico Steakhouse, "Emeril's dress." I had picked up McCalls 6505 at a pattern sale (oh, pattern sales...how I love you so) thinking "huh, I wonder when I'd ever wear this...oh well, it's only 99 cents!" and into my cart it went. Yes, I generally have to have a cart when I go to the fabric stores.  And there are many patterns that fall into the "it's only 99 cents" part of my logic, which when you think about it, can quickly add up to a large number when you put a lot of 99 centses together...let's just not think about that.

I have the basic shell of the dress put together, zipper and all, but now I have to add the scalloped sleeves, add the trim along the bottom, and do some tweeking to the overall fit.


Forgive the Instagram shot, but I only pull out the big camera for the finished product (because I am lazy and I hate loading pics onto my computer until I have a bunch of them to upload).  It looks pretty good on my dressform!  Sadly, my dressform has larger boobs than I do (seems kind of unfair, but thems the breaks), so when I put it on me I don't have quite the same...um...cup-filling.  I'm also annoyed that the area around the stomach poofs out because the front is all one piece with only side-boob darts (official terminology, I'm sure).  I may have to add some darts to the front, but I don't know if that would look bad?  I might just try to take more in on the sides instead.

I don't know who will actually see this, if anyone, but if you DO and you have some tips on how to get rid of the stomach-fabric pooling, I'd really appreciate it!  If I could alleviate that issue, then this dress will look awesome at our dinner!

Friday, July 6, 2012

Simplicity 2184 - Again

Jumping back to the past again, in March I had another go at Simplicity 2184 but opted for the full length this time for variety.

I bought fabric for it the same day I bought this pattern and the fabric for my first skirt, which was also the first time I had ever bought a pattern or fabric before.  My qualification for whether or not to purchase it was "ooooooo, pretty..." (although honestly, I can't really claim that things aren't still that way as I really don't know my fabrics all that well).  I saw this pink, flowery, crinkly fabric (I'm pretty sure that's the official term for this type of fabric: "crinkly."  You all know exactly what I'm talking about...just nod and smile).  It's certainly a beautiful fabric with a great flowyness (ok, spellcheck insists that is not a word; neither is "flowy" or "flowey" so just go with it), but it was definitely not easy to sew with and it frayed like mad!  (It's not crepe, chenille, chantilly, or chellis...ugh, what is this fabric called!  It starts with a C though, I think...and although I know how well I sold it, "crinkly" isn't actually a type of fabric.  Sorry to crush your spirit there).


I'm pretty meh about this skirt.  I did wear it to work once and got a lot of compliments and "you made thats???" (which of course I have to admit I like, although sometimes I wear things and people ask if I made it and I say yes, and then they tell me something like "seriously? I didn't really think you did I just thought I would ask since you sew." Then why ask??  Is that a compliment...? I think it's meant to be.  If I said "nope, not this one" what would the response be?  Seems like a set up for an awkward moment to me).

First of all, I wanted the skirt to go all the way to the floor, and clearly it doesn't (even with a narrow hem).  I'm 5'7" so I guess I should get used to adding an inch or two and if it's too long I can always shorten, but I can't lengthen (and I can't really shorten myself either, so that's out).  I can't remember what size I made, but I think I went with the same size as the first version of the skirt that was too small because clearly I learned that lesson so well the first time I decided to try it again assuming either I magically shrank or suddenly the size meant something different.  The fabric doesn't have any stretch to it either, so I ended up, once again, with a too tight skirt across the hips.  (Those damn hips).  I, once again, eeked out as much space as possible in my seam allowances, but I think the culprets in this skirt were the godets.

Yes, godets.  I learned what those were in the making of this skirt because there were like 50 of them (or 4, you decide which of those numbers is more accurate).  I learned that I kind of hate them and they are jerks (at least as a newby I really did...I haven't tried anything involving them again so I don't know if we can be friends yet).  Those are some tough little buggers to sew because of the odd way they come together at a point.  They also make pattern matching extremely difficult (but who am I kidding?  I didn't even try it anyway).

I also learned that this fabric is SHEER (is it crinkled gauze?  I seriously want to say challis, but I know that isn't right.  But it's see-through, crinkle fabric).  I had no clue how to line anything or even what to use, but I knew that I wanted it to be light and I knew we were coming up on summer in Texas (which runs from about March until December; it's like our only real season) so I didn't want anything too hot.  I went with a cotton muslin (still have no clue if that is the right choice) and I basically just traced the skirt laid out, cut double, sewed side seams and attached it when I attached the waistband.  Voila.  A serviceable lining by someone who had absolutely no clue what she was doing!

CHIFFON!!!  That's the word that has escaped me!  That's the fabric.  Well I feel better now.  I'm sure glad I didn't make too big of a deal out of remembering it...would be silly to make a mountain out of a molehill.  Yeah...


Two thoughts on this: what is up with the extra skin pooling at my elbows? Oh, 20's how I miss you and your skin elasticity.  Secondly, I need a wide brown woven leather belt.  That would really help this outfit.  As is, I'm just not feeling it and don't know if this will get much wear.  I do think it's a nice pattern though, even if my two attempts were not amazing (mostly due to my errors...and repeated errors, not the pattern itself).  Maybe I'll tackle it again because I really do want a maxi skirt that goes all the way to the floor.

Wednesday, July 4, 2012

4th of July Dress - Simplicity 2444

I feel like I've been living in the past on this blog so far (I mean, way back like 4 months ago when I was a wee sewing newbie as opposed to the vastly wiser sewing beginner that I am now).  So even though I have like a gajillion (more like 15) pre-blog projects to chronicle here, I thought I would show something I just completed so that you know how much better I have gotten and will hopefully continue reading this blog.  I'm better, I promise!  I make more than aprons and purses!


This pattern is everywhere!  I have seen so many completed versions of it and they are all beautiful!  I was inspired by Cynthia's version at Dapper Duds because it really caught my eye with the Chevron stripes and involved the right amount of "let-me-take-a-simple-pattern-and-make-my-life-more-difficult" that I seem to gravitate towards recently. (I did the same thing with the McCalls tank maxi dress that is everywhere because why make something that is only two pieces when you can turn it into 5 AND mess up and run out of fabric thus making it not a maxi but a mini?  Blog post coming eventually...)  I cut out a size 6 and I think that was probably the best choice because although it was a bit snug without a zipper (since it was all bias cut, it was just stretchy enough to wiggle into without one, SCORE!), I just made 3/8 seam allowances instead of 5/8 and it is fine so I think an 8 would have been a bit big.

Sidenote: I have really gone through quite a sizing journey over the last few months.  Packaging said I should be a 12, but after making a couple of things in that size I could have fit 2 of me in there, so I started using the finished measurements and usually fit somewhere between a 6 and an 8. I have a couple of things that fit at a 10, so really what I'm saying is I still have no idea about sizing.  Don't listen to me.  This was a wasted sidenote.

I found this fake silk fabric on clearance at Hancock Fabrics and I knew that this was the right project for the stripes (AND it could be patriotic!  Go USA!  Or whatever).


I really like the way this dress turned out and the pattern (if unmodified) seems like a really simple, tried-and-true dress that I will probably make again.  I butchered the hell out of it though and I didn't even use the instructions a single time (what a daredevil I am, taking so many risks) so I have no idea how clear they were.  I basically cut out each piece on a single layer, none of them on the fold, painstakingly trying to match the stripes to make the V shape, and then I immediately sewed each new piece as I went along.


I think I did a pretty good job (pat myself on the back).  I already knew after reading Cynthia's blog post that the darts and pleats kind of mess up the stripes, but I honestly had no idea how to plan for that so it is what it is.  It really doesn't bug me that much, especially since I was able to match pretty well everywhere else.  This fabric really didn't have very good long-term memory for pressing, so hemming was a beast.  I tried to do a blind hem, which is always kind of hit or miss for me anyway, and it didn't really turn out how I wanted it to, but I actually kind of like the contrast that I got along the bottom.  Am I crazy?  Does it not look good?  Am I just trying to convince myself that I like it so that I don't feel compelled to rip it out and try again (I must be doing a great job because I really think I like it!).  The one area I am not thrilled with is the neck because I made it into a V-neck (which I like!) and that made it more difficult to finish.  I used bias tape as a binding and it's a little wonky in spots, but maybe I should have drafted a facing?  I don't know.  I'm trying to ignore it.


I love how full the skirt is!  It also passes the spinning test and is very flowy (when I was little, I used to call dresses "stick out dresses" if I could spin and they would twirl nicely).  I really liked the fabric and aside from how easily it frayed it was easy to sew if I used a thin needle (80/11 as opposed to 90/14...I point this out because I am notorious for not thinking about those little details).  Cutting so many pieces on the bias also helped keep the fraying at bay.

I highly recommend this pattern!  It's so versatile because you make it as is or it provides a really good jumping-off point for other ideas.